A cooker hood is ready for collection only after you know which kind it is, who owns it, and what is still holding it to the kitchen. A canopy on the wall, a unit hidden in a cupboard and a hood hung over an island are different release jobs. The oven underneath is a different job again. Photograph the hood, the fixing and the power point before you ask anyone to lift it.
Do not pull the hood forward to see whether it will come free. The weight, the cable and the duct are easy to misjudge from the front edge.
Name the hood you actually have
Stand at the hob and write down what you can see. Record the width and the depth. Note whether the hood touches a wall, sits inside a cupboard, or hangs from the ceiling. A decorative chimney box is part of the object even when it looks like trim.
Use a description that matches the installation:
- Wall canopy, with a visible chimney cover above it.
- Integrated hood fixed inside a wall cupboard, sometimes behind a flap.
- Ceiling or island hood, with the support coming from above.
- Downdraft or worktop unit that rises beside the hob.
- A hood that has already been partly unscrewed and left hanging.
Photograph the front, the underside and one side. Add a view of the cupboard interior if the hood is integrated. Include the socket, fused spur or cable entry if you can see it without opening a fitting. A photo of the hob alone does not describe the hood.
State the material where you can tell it apart: painted metal, stainless steel, glass visor, or a mix. Mention cracks in the glass, a loose filter, a missing lamp cover and grease thick enough to drip. Those details change handling. They do not need a history of the kitchen.
If the hood is one part of a wider kitchen clearance, list the hood on its own line. “Kitchen” is not an item. The oven, the fridge and the cabinets each need their own note.
Keep the oven and the commercial canopy separate
The appliance under the hood is not the hood. A built-in oven, a freestanding cooker and a gas connection have their own release steps. Use the oven removal guide for that appliance. Do not assume that booking the oven includes the hood, or that releasing the hood makes the cooker safe to move.
A household hood is also different from a restaurant extraction canopy. Commercial canopies, ducts tied into a fire system, grease traps and fixed kitchen fabric belong with the restaurant-equipment guide. If the hood is in a cafe, cloud kitchen or staff canteen, say so at the start and ask for that assessment. Do not book it as a flat’s cooker hood.
Where several unlike appliances are leaving from the same home, keep one register so the hood, the oven and the fridge do not get mixed into a single line. The old-appliance removal guide is the place for that list. This page stays with the hood.
Settle ownership before a screw is released
Ask who owns the hood before anyone detaches it. In an unfurnished flat the answer may be simple. In a furnished tenancy, a developer kitchen or a sale pack, the hood may be listed with the property. Removing a fitted appliance without authority can become a reinstatement problem for the person who booked the collection.
Read the inventory if you have one. Look for words such as fitted, built-in, landlord supply or developer supply. If the paper is silent, photograph the fixings and ask the owner or manager in writing. A removal booking is not permission to alter the kitchen.
A replacement kitchen or a new hood delivery does not decide ownership by itself. Read what the retailer has agreed to remove. Confirm whether that agreement includes the old hood, the chimney cover, the duct, or only the new product. Leave the confirmed collection in place until that written scope is clear.
Separate power and duct from the carry-out
Look for how the hood is powered. Some units plug into a socket inside the cupboard. Others meet a fused connection or a cable that disappears into the wall. Unplug a normal plug if you can reach it safely and the unit is switched off. Do not open a spur, cut a cable or pull a wire out of a connector to make the hood look free.
The published acceptance notes for cooking appliances say crews do not cut live cables or disconnect gas. Treat the hood the same way. If the supply is not a simple plug, arrange a competent person to isolate it and confirm that isolation before the collection window. Tell the provider which arrangement applies. A hood that is still electrically connected is not a loose appliance.
Then look at the air path. A recirculating hood sends air back into the room through filters. A ducted hood connects to a pipe, a flat channel or a grille in the wall or ceiling. Photograph that connection. Do not cut the duct, unscrew an external grille or break into a ceiling void to “make it easier”. The pipe and the wall opening may belong to the building.
The collection item is the hood that has been released. Ductwork, fire-rated parts and building fabric stay until the person responsible for the property says they are part of the load. If you cannot tell whether a pipe is part of the hood or part of the building, leave it attached, show it in the photos and ask.
Empty the filters, lamps and loose pieces
Switch the hood off and let it cool. Remove the metal or mesh filters if they slide out without tools. Bag them so they travel with the hood rather than as a sharp loose piece in a drawer. If a filter is stuck with grease, leave it in place and say so. Forcing it can bend the frame and leave a sharp edge.
Charcoal filters, lamp covers and the glass visor should be named. A cracked glass panel is a handling fact, not a detail to turn toward the wall in the photo. If you can wipe surface grease without taking the hood down, do that and bag the cloth with ordinary waste you are allowed to throw away. Do not pour degreaser, solvent or oil into a drain, and do not pack those bottles inside the hood.
Take out bulbs only if they release without force. Bag them separately from the filters. A broken lamp is glass. Say so.
Check the cupboard beside and above an integrated hood. Packets, cables and a spare filter may sit on the housing. Remove them. A cupboard door that hides the hood should be photographed open and then left in the position the provider asks for, so the fixing screws are visible.
Do not dismantle the chimney as a guess
A telescopic chimney cover may slide if it was designed to. It may also be screwed to the wall and to the hood body. Photograph the screws before you remove them. If the cover is supporting the hood, leave the assembly intact and let the release be agreed first. A hood that drops because the cover was taken off is heavier and less stable than the photo suggested.
Keep screws and brackets in a labelled bag when a separation is agreed. Loose metal on a worktop disappears into the rest of the kitchen clear-out. If the hood is being discarded, the bag still matters because those pieces are sharp. If someone else will reinstall it, the bag is part of the item.
Measure the hood and the kitchen route
Measure the hood at its widest and deepest points, including a glass visor and a chimney cover. Then walk from the hob to the place the vehicle is expected to stop. Measure the kitchen door, the corridor turn, the apartment entrance and the lift door. A hood that looks slim on the wall can be too wide to rotate in a galley kitchen.
Photograph the turn out of the kitchen with enough of the room to show the worktop and the opposite cabinet. The bulky-item pickup guide explains how to show one awkward object and the full path. Use it if the hood is large or the route has more than one tight point.
In a tower, the path continues through the service corridor and the loading area. Where the building asks for a lift booking or a move permission, arrange that before the collection window. The service-lift guide is the place for that building question. Do not stand the hood in a shared corridor while you wait.
In a villa, include the kitchen door to the outside, steps and the gate. A long canopy that clears the kitchen can still fail at a side door.
Say what else is leaving from the kitchen
If only the hood is leaving, clear a standing space in front of the hob and leave the oven in place. If the oven, fridge and cabinets are leaving too, say so on the inventory. A quote for one hood should not be read as a quote for the kitchen. Cabinets that are fixed joinery are a carpenter’s release, not an automatic part of an appliance collection.
Time a new hood delivery separately. Confirm whether the installer removes the old unit. If the installer does not, keep the collection appointment from blocking the fitter, and keep the fitter from assuming the old hood has already gone.
Leave repairs and cabinet strip-out off the hood booking
Screw holes, a grease shadow on the tiles and a missing silicone line are notes for the person responsible for the kitchen. They are not a repair the collection crew should be asked to finish. Photograph them if you want a record, then keep fillers, paint and sealant out of the appliance load.
If the cabinets are being removed as part of a renovation, that debris has its own plan. The renovation-waste guide covers trade release and mixed building waste. The hood still needs its own line so it is not hidden inside a phrase such as “old kitchen”. A fitter who is stripping carcasses may leave the hood hanging. Confirm who releases it, and do not book both teams into the same narrow kitchen hour without a written order of work.
A glass visor that is already cracked should be shown before it is wrapped. If you tape cardboard over it, say what the cardboard is hiding. The same applies to a sharp edge where a filter frame has bent.
Book the released hood as an appliance collection
When the hood is unplugged or isolated, released from the duct and the wall as agreed, and the filters are accounted for, it can be booked as an appliance. Send the photos, the type, the measurements, the floor and the access notes. Ask for appliance disposal on that basis. The service page holds the booking. This article holds the preparation.
Say whether a simple plug was removed or a competent person isolated a fixed supply. Say whether a duct is still attached. Say if the glass is cracked. Those three facts change the job more than the brand name.
On the day, keep the route through the kitchen clear, leave the hardware bag with the hood, and point out grease, glass and a damaged filter you have already photographed. Do not add the oven or a cabinet at the door unless the provider has accepted the change.
Once the type, the power, the duct and the route are written down, send that record with the appliance request. A photo of the cupboard interior and the cable entry is what separates a loose hood from a unit that still belongs to an electrician or a fitter.
Common questions about a cooker hood
Is an extractor hood the same job as the oven?
No. The hood, the oven and a gas connection are separate decisions. Book the oven on its own terms. The hood still needs its power, duct and fixings described.
Can the crew cut the duct or the cable?
Do not expect a collection crew to cut a live cable or to open the building’s duct. A simple plug can be dealt with as a plug. A fixed supply needs a competent isolation first. A pipe that may be part of the building stays until the responsible person releases it.
What if the hood is inside a cupboard?
Photograph the open cupboard, the screws and the cable. The cupboard door and the housing are part of the description. If the cupboard itself is fitted joinery and is staying, the hood has to be released without assuming the cabinet leaves too.
Does a greasy filter stop the collection?
It changes the handling note. Remove a filter that slides out safely, or leave a stuck filter in place and say so. Do not hide grease by taping a cloth over it with no comment.
